While London patiently awaits the arrival of the 25th annual Fashion Week at Somerset House, our New York counterpart is already underway. The Bryant Park catwalks have played host to Derek Lam, Diane Von Furstenburg, and Carolina Herrera to name but a few. But it is Marc Jacobs who is currently the toast of the town and the figleaves.com office.
Marc Jacobs’ Spring 2010 ready to wear collection stepped out with a subtle couture twist, comprising all the notes needed to create a fusion fashion symphony. Japanese style top knots piled on top of the heads of Pierrot made-up models blended Asian and European influences. Zigzag patterns and cut away fabrics were reminiscent of both a folksy 1970’s Zandra Rhodes and her 1980’s punk ventures. Military style jackets in pastel colour palettes added femininity to masculine shapes. Shoulders were big and wide but softened by ruffles, creating boardroom power dressing with a romantic twist.
Antiquity met modernity where lamé metallic fabrics were overlayed with pearl embellishment and high lace collars. While the collection featured references to several time periods, in a nod to the more recent past we especially loved the designer revisiting his experimentation with underwear as outerwear.
Bras in soft satin over tailored shirts and full briefs as shorts under blazers represented an interesting collision of workwear meets loungewear that we wish we had the guts (and the legs) to try. Thankfully hemlines weren’t always short. Billowing dresses ending mid calf and worn over sheer hosiery also featured heavily.
At first glance the collection may seem as though there is no common theme connecting the eclectic mix of east, west, old, new, fantasy, reality, work and play but in a week of what have been beautiful but quite safe shows; this melting pot of contrasting flavours has inspired us. Speaking after the show the designer told of his desire to romanticise with his clothes. Well we couldn’t help but fall in love.